Pearls are considered one of the most timeless and elegant of gems. Prized for their natural beauty and unique origins. Whether you're new to fine jewellery or looking to invest in your first strand, this guide will walk you through everything you need to know about pearls - from their origins and significance throughout history, to how to buy and care for them.

What Is a Pearl?

Unlike most gemstones that are formed through geological processes in nature and mined from the earth - pearls are organic gems formed within living molluscs, typically oysters or mussels. A pearl forms when an irritant, foreign body or a parasite) becomes trapped inside the mollusc. Through a defence mechanism, the mollusc secretes layers of nacre (which is a combination of calcium carbonate and conchiolin), forming around the irritant and gradually builds a pearl.

Today, natural pearls are extremely rare. The majority of pearls available in today’s market are cultured, meaning they are formed through human intervention. A nucleus is implanted into a mollusc in a controlled environment, which then prompts the process. 

Pearls throughout history.

Pearls have been treasured for thousands of years, long before the technology to cultivate them existed. In ancient civilisations, they were worn by royalty in regions such as Egypt, China, India, and Rome. Cleopatra famously demonstrated her immense wealth by dissolving a pearl in vinegar and drinking it.

During the Middle Ages and the Renaissance, pearls symbolised purity, wealth, and status in Europe. In fact, sumptuary laws were introduced to restrict their use exclusively to nobility.

The 19th and early 20th centuries became known as the “Pearl Age,” a time when pearls were at the height of their popularity, particularly among European and American aristocracy.

A major turning point came in the early 20th century when Kokichi Mikimoto of Japan developed the technique for culturing pearls. This innovation revolutionised the jewellery industry by making pearls more widely available and affordable.

Today, pearls continue to represent sophistication, versatility, and timeless elegance — remaining a beloved choice in both classic and contemporary jewellery design.

Types of Pearls

There are several types of pearls available on the market. Each has its own characteristics, value, and appeal.

1. Akoya Pearls

• Origin: Primarily Japan and China

• Shape: Round and symmetrical

• Colour: White, cream, sometimes with rose, blue and grey overtones

• Lustre: High

• Best For: Classic strands and earrings

2. South Sea Pearls

• Origin: Australia, Philippines, Indonesia

• Size: Largest of all cultured pearls (can exceed 15mm)

• Colour: White, silver, and golden

• Lustre: Soft and satiny

• Best For: High-end statement pieces

3. Tahitian Pearls

• Origin: French Polynesia

• Colour: Naturally dark, ranging from black to green, peacock, and aubergine

• Shape: Often round or baroque

• Best For: Bold, modern jewellery

4. Freshwater Pearls

• Origin: China

• Shape: Varied (round, oval, button, baroque)

• Colour: White, peach, lavender, and dyed options

• Best For: Affordable and everyday wear

5. Keshi Pearls

• Origin: By-product of pearl cultivation

• Size & Shape: Irregular and often small

• Lustre: High

• Best For: Artistic and unique designs

6. Kasumiga Pearls

• Origin: Lake Kasumigaura, Japan

• Size & Shape: Medium to large (9–16mm)

• Lustre: Soft to metallic

• Best For: Unique, colourful jewellery with a modern flair

7.  Mabe Pearls

• Origin: Japan, Indonesia, Australia - A mabe pearl, also known as a blister pearl or half pearl, is a pearl grown on the inside of a pearl oyster shell.

• Size & Shape: Medium to large (10–20mm)

• Lustre: High, mirror-like surface

• Best For: Bold earrings, pendants, and brooches due to their flat back.

How to Judge a Pearl: The 5 Value Factors

Just like diamonds have the 4 Cs, pearls are evaluated and graded on five main criteria:

1. Lustre: The most important factor. This refers to how much light the pearl reflects. High-quality pearls have sharp, bright reflections.

2. Surface Quality: Fewer blemishes or marks indicate higher value.

3. Shape: Perfectly round pearls are the rarest and most prized, but baroque and off-round shapes are beautiful in their own right.

4. Colour: Pearls come in a range of natural and treated colours. Value depends on rarity and desirability.

5. Size: Larger pearls are generally more valuable, assuming all other factors are equal.

Additional consideration: Matching is important when buying a strand or pair of earrings. Consistent colour, size, and shape add to the piece’s appeal and price.

How to Care for Pearls

Pearls are more delicate than most gemstones and require gentle care to keep them looking their best.

• Wear Often: Pearls benefit from the natural oils in your skin, which help maintain their lustre.

• Avoid Chemicals: Perfume, hairspray, and makeup can damage nacre. Always put on pearls last when dressing.

• Store Safely: Keep pearls in a soft pouch or lined jewellery box, separate from harder jewellery that can scratch them.

• Clean Gently: After wearing, wipe with a soft cloth. For deeper cleaning, use a damp cloth with mild soap and water. Never soak pearls or use ultrasonic cleaners.

• Restring Regularly: For necklaces or bracelets worn frequently, have them restrung every 1–2 years to prevent breakage.

Choosing and Buying Pearls

Whether you're buying pearls in Melbourne or online, knowing what to look for will help you feel confident in making an informed purchase.

1. Define Your Purpose

Define what you're looking for. Is it everyday wear, a special occasion piece, or a gift? Your intended use will guide you to the type, size, and price point.

2. Work with Reputable Jewellers

Buying from a trusted independent jeweller in Melbourne, like Gray Reid Gallery, ensures authenticity, quality, and expert guidance. Independent jewellers often source directly and can offer bespoke designs or remodelling options.

3. Consider Quality

Ask about the pearl’s lustre, origin, and treatment. Don’t be afraid to request a magnifying glass or loupe to inspect the surface quality.

4. Consider Certification or Valuation

For higher-end purchases, request a valuation or certificate confirming the type and quality of the pearls, especially for insurance purposes.

5. Try Them On

One of the advantages of visiting a physical location like Gray Reid Gallery, is being able to try on different pearl styles and sizes. Pearls reflect skin tones differently, and fit is important for comfort and style.

The Allure of Pearls

Whether classic or contemporary, pearls offer a natural and timeless option that never goes out of style.

Pearls are timeless because they blend natural elegance with versatility, evolving from classic to contemporary styles. A single strand evokes tradition and grace, while a modern Tahitian pearl set in a ring reflects bold sophistication. Their soft, luminous glow flatters every skin tone and outfit. They are enduring symbols of beauty, individuality, and heritage.

For those in search of handcrafted pearl jewellery in Melbourne, or looking to remodel a vintage strand into a modern design, Gray Reid Gallery offers expert guidance, traditional goldsmithing, and a deep appreciation for this timeless gem.

Visit us in our Collins Street showroom to explore our collection or  contact us to discuss your bespoke pearl design today.